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Sig PE-57 and AMT repair sections

Pete, a friend of Gun Lab, was at the last Knob Creek show and picked up a PE-57 kit and repair section. He was nice enough to send me some pictures of the repair part and I thought I would add a few pictures of my AMT rifle to give you a comparison.

The first thing I have to say is that I am not beating up on the guy that made this repair section. This receiver is very complex and if made with the correct steel would be very difficult to press. With out having a progress stamping set up I think he did a descent job.

I also did not have the repair section here to measure.

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DSC_5457sthe ejection port still needs to be cut out and formed

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DSC_5456s

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DSC_5464s

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GE DIGITAL CAMERAHis bend looks a little rough.

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GE DIGITAL CAMERAEverything seems to match up when pressed together

GE DIGITAL CAMERAThe most glaring issue I see is the caming surface.

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DSC_5459sOn the original weapon it is a clean and precise bend.

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DSC_5461sThis one looks to have a not so clean surface and a dimple in it.

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GE DIGITAL CAMERAWho ever made this put a great deal of work into it. It does need a re-press to clean it up.

I would like to hear from people that have used this repair section to build up a rifle.

31 comments to Sig PE-57 and AMT repair sections

  • GregT

    I’m always trying to find out more info from other builders too. Unfortunately, even though he’s been making these for quite some time, I really haven’t seen much. I’ve got three of the repair sections, and multiple kits. All of them will have to wait until I move, though it’s really tempting to unpack and start working on them.

    One thing I’ve always been interested in, but have never gotten a response from anyone about, is whether they figured out a way to re-braze the receiver onto the trunnions, or if they’ve just welded. If it is welded, how is the weapon holding up? Did they do any heat treating? Any clean up of that camming surface? Etc.

    RIP Weaponsman

  • Chuck

    Hello GregT. Pete is actively working on his and will have a report and pictures in the future.

    • GregT

      That would be terrific, looking forward to it. I know there are a few builds out there, but no one seems to talk about them much. FYI, there’s a DSA MAGarms Stg-57 build for sale currently on GB.

  • arturo klisowski

    Wait, somebody is actually making repair sections for the STG and there are builders!! I have have been looking for a recommended builder for some time, I desire a STG more so than I should. Has anybody been able to source barrels yet? I heard that was one of biggest hurdles, well that and magazines.

    • GregT

      The same guy that was/is making the repair sections also had some barrels made. I’ve got a few of his, both in .308 and in 7.5. They look excellent.

      I’ll see if I can dig out my repair sections for a comparison view, I wonder if anything has changed, or if there are several generations of them out there.

  • Chuck

    Pete found it at the “Creek” I don’t know is they are still making them. He has spent a great deal of time and energy re-stamping it to correct the radius and bends. He is sending pictures for a write up.

  • Randy Moon

    Is this the repair sections made by a guy near Houston or Dallas? I heard he wasn’t making them anymore. If these have become available again I have several kits to build!

  • GregT

    I did dig out my repair sections, and they look exactly like the one you posted, Chuck. I’m also still curious as to how the reprofiling went to correct the radius etc.

    • Chuck

      In
      have a series of pictures and a write up describing Pete’s project. I will be doing a write up in the future

    • Having done 3 the repressing varies some tube to tube. The cocking handle slot/top piece install can take most all day to do mostly due to the bend below the slot being less square than it should be. If you repress it and square it up the top of the rec. could end up lower on that side than the cam side.
      Thinking if I ever do another I would consider rounding the area of the handle where it rides in that corner. Hate cutting on original parts though. All mine have worked fine after much time spent and finally lapping with 320 grit lapping compound.
      Screwing up this part of the build would be REALLY hard to fix!
      Pete

      • GregT

        What are your thoughts on leaving the trunnions and original sections alone, milling out a copper mandrel, and tig welding the repair section in? In some ways I suspect that might be a better solution, but I guess it all depends on what you’re starting with.

        • Mikes tubes work but I doubt their cross section would butt up to the original and line up perfectly. No good way to fix if the corners were off much at all. Only dealing with .050 metal so it’s not like one can grind and blend to look good.
          I gave that some thought and decided it was not the best idea in the world.
          Did a CETME L that way with a gen 1 Jestes flat. made it work but it’s pretty ugly.
          Pete

  • Interesting that I spoke to Mike (the maker of the repair sections) just today. We had a nice conversation in which it was determined that the piece I had built my rifle with was most likely a less than perfect piece that would not have been sold normally and most of the extra work I had to do would not usually be needed. It was ok in the end and I’m up to over 600 rds. thru the gun, all shooting just fine with one of the .308 barrels.
    Mike says he’ll have another run of the rec. pieces available before too long.
    Pete in St. Louis

    • GregT

      Thanks for that report, Pete.

      Sounds like it’s a runner, it’ll be interesting to find out how it does long term. Did you do a weld on the front trunnion, or what did you do to attach it? I’ve been asking everyone about that, I’ve never gotten an answer. I’ve got two of the receiver repair sections, but seeing how the factory did it (looks like induction brazing?), I’m still trying to figure out the most durable way to fix the receiver on the front trunnion.

      • Just saw these replies.
        Re the welds. I’ve done 3 of these, TIG thru holes drilled same places as the factory spot welds. Last one I drilled the holes bigger than the 1/8 I tigged thru and used the wire feed. Less heating of the trunion with the wire feed but felt I had more control with the TIG.
        Likely no way to duplicate the factory sweat braze as I’m thinking the Swiss did the heat treat and braze in the same operation. I do not know how to account for what appears to be surface hardening of the original sheet metal. If anyone has cut or filed on it you know what I mean. Mikes tubes are 1018 with no apparent hardening. I’m up to around 800 rds. thru my build with no issues, even the ejector camming surface shows no wear I can see.
        I’m running Radway Green .308 with no mod to the roller locking piece contrary to what I was told about needing to have the angles changed on that part.
        Pete Shortfalstl@msn.com

        • GregT

          Thanks for that info, Pete, it really helps.

          I know what you mean about the original hardening, I haven’t figured that one out either. Good to hear it’s running well so far. Where’d you hear about modding the roller locking angles?

          One option I’m thinking of doing, since I’m active on some Swiss boards, is trying to locate some folks that might have actually worked at SIG. Maybe they have some info…if I get any back I’ll post up here, since this seems to have more solid info than I’ve found anywhere else.

          • Was talking to Mike at the April Creek after having bought the parts, barrel and tube. He told me that without the change in angle to the locking piece I’d have a single shot. He is partially right. I tried other ammo than the RG and got failures to eject. Having a lot of the RG I’m good. 13 Pound gun is a bit heavy for a lot of offhand shooting and the bench gets boring after a couple mags. My RG will last a long time!
            Did that last one and had issues with it but turned out I had bent the very front sides of the mag in too much. Needed to feed the .308 without stubbing into the barrel rear. Removed a bit of the bends, honed the chamber just a little and it’s running fairly well.
            My first one took some shooting before it ran 100%. I think this one will too. Told the owner to buy up what RG he can find.

          • Re the locking piece it’s just for the .308 builds Mike said the angles needed to be changed for.
            Thinking if the locking piece is ground different the barrel shoulder might have to be cut back to get the bolt gap right. I’m using a .003 shim stock washer on the shoulder now and have the .5 to 1 mm gap.
            As interesting as it would be to talk to a SIG person I doubt we could duplicate their process within economic
            bounds.
            Welding the quite hard trunions to the obviously somewhat soft tube seems bad practice but seems ok so far. Last 2 I put a edge weld on the magwell bottom each side and a small weld on the upper corners. Gun with about 800 thru it not. OK so far re it.
            Pete

    • Michael

      I have been looking for receiver build kits/built receivers/barrels for about 3 years now, anything to complete my build – i would take at least a few receivers, 2 308 barrels and 2 7.5 barrels… how do i get in touch with whoever (Pete?) Could help me?

  • jb (the other on)

    Any more word on the write up or details?

  • JB (the other on)

    I am looking forward to this very much. I have, like everyone, the internet prints but they are really worthless in trying to read the dimensional numbers. I very much want to make some repair sections and would like to see how Pete pulled it off.

    • MeanGreen

      I agree. Chuck, thank you very much for your efforts. I am REALLY looking forward to seeing your write up, as there is almost nothing else on the internet about building up these guns from kits.

  • domfortune99

    I have been looking for a receiver tube and a 7.5 barrel so I can complete my STGW57 kit.

    Is there anyplace out there that has these parts?

  • AdamSmith13

    Has anyone been in contact with mike at MAG ARMS latly. I paid him $900 back in January 2016 for a barrel and receiver repair section that I still haven’t got to this day. If he manages to accidentally pick up my phone call it’s B.S. excuse after excuse. I sent in my complete bolt to him as well to get the locking cam reprofiled to convert it from 7.5 to 308 so I have a parts kit minus a bolt if anyone is need parts.

    • Chuck

      I would be interested. How much

    • MeanGreen

      AdamSmith13,

      Unfortunately, my experience with Mike from MagArms was almost identical to yours. I bought a receiver shell from him that took several months to be delivered. Then, I sent him my 7.5 bolt to be modified for .308. I didn’t hear anything for almost 6 months, so I tried emailing him, but never got a response. I eventually got through on the phone, after several attempts, but just got rambling excuses about why he hadn’t done anything with it yet.

      Now, I am a very patient and reasonable person. I understand that he has a day job, and just does this in his free time. I wasn’t looking to pester him or demand anything, I simply wanted an honest update. If he would have said “Hey look, I am really backlogged and won’t even be able to look at it for at least another month or two”, I would have been fine with that, but instead, all I would get was dodgy “um… Uh, yeah, I don’t know what’s taking my guy so long, it should definitely be sent out by next week.”… For several more months.

      I eventually DID receive my modified bolt back, after close to a year I think… With zero accurate updates from him. Extremely frustrating to say the least, but he is the only source for these PE57 parts…

      Good Luck.

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