These are the noted problems.

The first one is [...]]]> With the last test model machined I started putting the lower together and a number of issues were noted. The receiver dimension is correct for  the holes, magazine release, magazine well and overall length and width. the magazine button and release lever are not deep enough.

These are the noted problems.

The first one is a very slight radius issue on the rear of the receiver just prior to the buffer tube

The second issue concerns the magazine release lever. this needs to be cut deeper to allow proper fit.

The third issue deals with the hole for the selector. There is a slight inset in the receiver to all the selector to set properly and this needs to be cut in. This is how it looks on the original.

And you can see it is missing on my test receiver.

The last issue is raised portion of the receiver around the magazine release. On my receiver it extends to far over and does not line up with the upper receiver properly.

With some minor changes to the machining program I hope to correct these issues.

A few days ago a friend left one of those Automags on my work bench.

“Just needs the broken safety lever replaced and doesn’t eject properly.”

He supplied a new safety lever and two springs and bearing balls (BB) each.

Ok, first thing I always do is [...]]]> AMT Automag II – replace safety lever

A few days ago a friend left one of those Automags on my work bench.

“Just needs the broken safety lever replaced and doesn’t eject properly.”

He supplied a new safety lever and two springs and bearing balls (BB) each.

Ok, first thing I always do is checking online to see if anybody posted some info on this.

There was a promising video headlined “AMT Automag II Full Disassembly”.

Sadly it leaves the disassembly part for the slide completely out because it’s “a PITA”.

Well, somebody built it so somebody can take it apart.

First you have to punch out the roll pin that serves as axis for the rear sight.

Since I’m German pins get pushed in from the right side and out from the left.

Of course this didn’t work. Trying from the right side worked hassle-free though.

Heck, these things were made in California so everything is possible.

PIC 1

After removal of the roll pin turn the elevation screw on the rear sight to max elevation.

The rear sight should come off now. Make sure you don’t lose those both tiny springs underneath.

PIC 2

Now you can push out the firing pin retaining pin from below. It doesn’t need to go out all the way.

PIC 3

Now pull out the firing pin. Shaking out the remains of the broken safety lever and ready to go!

Put the safety lever detent spring in the corresponding hole. Now try to place the 2.36mm dia. BB on top of it… It won’t stay there – guaranteed.

To avoid endless searching for the BB that fell on the floor to be gone forever, you clamp the pistol slide inside a plastic bag. This way the BB is landing in the bag and we are happy.

PIC 4

To keep the BB in place and being able to push it down in the detent spring hole you’ll need a fixture.

Since I’m not planning on doing this ever again (!!!), a simple piece of round wood I found in my trash can was used. Needs a cutout about the diameter of the BB and slightly off center since that matches the location of the detent spring hole in the slide.

PIC 5

Then clamp the slide in the bench vise slightly canted to the left side so the BB will stay in position.

PIC 6

BEFORE you continue make sure the BB is going all the way in the detent spring hole!

Both springs provided were either too long or the hole too short. Remember – made in CA!

So I slightly shortened the spring (flattened end towards BB) till the BB was clearing the hole for the safety lever.

With the fixture in place (press fit to the safety hole) the BB has no other way to go when you push it down with a punch.

My friend who dropped that project on my table just showed up and told me: “You need new punches, they suck!”

I guess he grabbed the one I had modified for this exercise and hadn’t been changed back to normal so far.

You have to push down the BB at a slight angle approaching from the cutout for the hammer.

So it helps if you angle the tip of the punch accordingly. Using this specialized tool on something else might become a lil frustrating I can imagine…

While keeping the BB pushed down, you pull out the fixture and (try to) push the safety lever (pointing in the 12 o’clock position) in.

You still will have a hard time to get it in so a slight chamfer on the safety lever as pictured helps a lot.

PIC 7

Once I got the safety lever in it worked nicely – so far…

BUT after installing the firing pin the safety lever was only rotating about two thirds!

The cutout for the firing pin was not radiused so the safety could not properly rotate under the firing pin and was off center same as the chamfered area on the rear of the safety!

PIC 8a and 8b

That required some grinding and fitting on the safety lever – after removing it from the slide!

So BEFORE installing the detent spring and BB, test the interaction between safety lever and firing pin! Saves you the trouble to do it all again.

BTW – it can never hurt to have a large reference collection at hand where you can simply pull a similar gun for comparison!

PIC 9

Word of caution – NEVER let the hammer fall against the engaged safety at full force!

That’s very likely the reason for the broken safety on this gun.

Engage the safety, pull the hammer slightly back, then pull the trigger and gently lower the hammer.

The safety on this gun doesn’t offer a decocking function. But even with other guns that feature that, I always keep the hammer back and lower it slowly after engaging the safety.

I have experienced damage to the safety at the Walther PP/PPK and P.38/P1 if you just let the hammer drop.

The only gun with slide mounted decocking safety that seems to withstand permanent hammer dropping is the Beretta M9. On the other side I don’t know what the maintenance schedule on these guns is with precautionary replacement of the safety lever.

The only pistols where the decocking function is properly desgined IMO are the SIG 220 series guns and the Sauer & Sohn 1938H of course which was their inspiration. Here the hammer is actually gently lowered against the force of your thumb pressing down the decocking lever.

This is NOT the case with some other guns with similar decocking levers like Astra 80/90/100 or Taurus 92/99.

Finally the test firing to see about the “ejection issue”.

With some random .22 WMR ammo it worked right from the start.

PIC 10

Happens all the time when people show me guns that don’t cycle properly.

Self-loading guns  esp. recoil operated ones (with the lone exception of inertia systems) need to be firmly supported (hand/shoulder) to cycle and eject/feed.

Time to wrap this gun up and hope to never touch one of those again!

I have nothing in the fab shop that can handle that power requirement. My phase [...]]]> A while back a friend of gun lab brought over a new press. It will really help with some of the pressings that we have coming up, however it is a 7 1/2 HP 3 phase motor.

I have nothing in the fab shop that can handle that power requirement. My phase converter is a 7HP rotary phase converter. Well worry no more. On Thursday came a knock at the door with the opening statement “friend of gun lab” and I am barring gifts.

On his trailer was a 15 HP rotary phase converter with a fabricated stand.

Now a new project for me is to wire it into the fab shop and run a 3 phase circuit in there.

Thanks to John U. for the phase converter.

Side note is that all the Budweiser aluminum in the drying rack in the back ground are for the metal casting project coming up and they are not mine. They all come from a certain German fellow.

This rifle is a Model 1941 short rifle with a transitional stock. It uses [...]]]> At the last SAR show I was finally able to pick up a Mauser rifle that I have been looking for for over 30 years. When they were available I had no money and you know the rest of the story.

This rifle is a Model 1941 short rifle with a transitional stock. It uses cross between a model 937-A short rifle stock and a 1941 short rifle stock. The main difference is  the change from the flat to a cupped butt plate, the change of the forward sling attachment point and The lack of a grove at the rear sling attachment point. The stock is matching to the rifle.

I have always found the Portuguese crest to be one of the most beautiful of all the crests.

Like a number of these rifles they were pressed into Germany service during the war. There are acceptance stamps on the receiver,stock and parts.

A nice addition to the Gun Lab reference collection.

The home owner said she wanted it gone. So at my house sets to kilns [...]]]> In the post I talked about the trip to the storage shed. This pile of stuff came about because I just asked. I was doing a job for a home owner and in the back yard was this pile.

The home owner said she wanted it gone. So at my house sets to kilns and two motorized potter wheels.

A large potters wheel

small potters wheel

A small kiln

A large kiln

I also did another job at a house that was being sold. The owner called to ask a few questions and I asked about the bench.

It is now in the wood shop for the cost of just picking it up.

I enclosed the back to keep unwanted guests out of the drawers.

I did clean and lubricate all the drawer  bearings as well.