Comments on: Rebarreling a Mauser Action

By: ben

ben — Fri, 15 Mar 2019 14:46:45 +0000

just watched your video on rebarrel yugo 48.i am interested in your action wrench.did you make this or is it commercial.thanks

By: Torst

Torst — Tue, 12 Aug 2014 05:15:41 +0000

Hi,nice work! One question: I have a Mauser 98 in 308 myself. Do you have a soution for the magazine, where the short 308 cartridges move too much, as the 8×57 are longer and broader?

By: Dan

Dan — Thu, 23 Jan 2014 03:43:48 +0000

The old barrel has a cut for the extractor; does the new one need one too? I was thinking that there are lots of guns that don’t have the relief cut so as long as its reamed and properly headspaced it should be good but I would feel a lot better hearing it from a pro and not just my own tinkerers musings.

Thanks

By: Justin

Justin — Mon, 09 Dec 2013 18:39:14 +0000

If you look close when he’s showing the barrel the first time, you can see it has a compensator. Because of that it does have to be oriented correctly.

By: colbee1951

colbee1951 — Tue, 19 Nov 2013 14:56:52 +0000

Excellent video! I have a few ideas for future videos if you are up to the challenge.
1. Installation of muzzle brake- requires threading the muzzle, much as setting up the breech threads.
2. machining off the stripper clip guide
3. opening a bolt face to accept a magnum cartridge (0.532-0.534)

These are all things I’ve learned the hard way and it would be excellent if someone with your talent could make something of the quality of your barreling video to help those of us who are neophytes.

Again, well done.

By: Chris

Chris — Fri, 08 Nov 2013 01:24:12 +0000

Does there need to be a relief cut into the barrel for the claw extractor. Thinking of either buying a Winchester M70 straight out or doing a build out like this if I can ever get my dream job in a machine shop, since my degree was in mech e. Thanks.

By: Matt George

Matt George — Fri, 18 Oct 2013 05:38:47 +0000

I saw this video and think it is awesome. Very nice work. You have inspired me to want to do this to one of my M48’s. I work in a machine shop and have access to the tools whenever I want, so I’m ready to go. I did come up with a few questions though.

You kept referring to the “top of the barrel.” This may bea dumb question, but what is the top? The barrel is round, but is there a distinct section that needs to be the top? Is it just based on the cutouts on the muzzle end of your particular barrel?

You also made a comment at the 19:00 mark when you start chambering the barrel that you got “these AR-10 barrels.” Did you get multiple messed up barrels? Do you have more that I could possibly get one from you? If not, where did you go to get an improperly chambered barrel? I’m assuming it was a lot cheaper than a new good barrel. Since the chambered end would be cut off to make it fit the Mauser, makes sense to save the money.

Also, you said at the end that you would have other videos as to a stock and trigger work? Any info on that?

Last question, did you have to do anything for the magazine or did the .308 rounds fit into the stock Mauser magzine?

Any help with this would be greatly apreciated.

By: Ken

Ken — Thu, 06 Jun 2013 03:49:07 +0000

Ian Excellent demo. Have 2 projects to do and nice to know I
won’t be trying them myself. Unfortunately no smiths near me
but without machine shop tools and skills, I’d rather wait than
destroy materials. Could you do a video where you duplicate
a non machine shop environment and using simple hand finish
reamers, install an unfinished Mauser barrel. A video showing
how this might be accomplished by amateurs might be useful
for people who want to try

By: Bill

Bill — Wed, 03 Apr 2013 23:52:00 +0000

Ian,
A very well done video, I’d like to ask a few questions, please. Along the lines of making everything concentric why was lapping the bolt lugs and bolt face not performed? I applaud you for cleaning up the inner ring but lapping the bolt face after the lugs have been done is standard for concentricity. I post this not as criticism… but as inquiry

By: Rob M

Rob M — Sat, 16 Mar 2013 21:16:54 +0000

WD-40 is not a lubricant, the initials stand for “Water Displacement formula 40″. Just good for your audience to know as surfaces treated with WD-40 will be lubricated in the short term, but will dry out over the long term.